To speak of a place like Mitla is to speak of history, mysticism, tradition, and magic; of a place that exists in eternity, where time dissolves to coexist within an atmosphere filled with color, scent, and flavor, allowing us to experience a past that remains present. The greatest charm that Mitla offers the world is not found in what can be seen but rather in all that lies beneath—its past, its history, and that mystical process carried out over the years, materialized in every product born in this remarkable place.
From its origin, Mitla has been a symbol unto itself—not merely a place, but an entrance, a passageway that has a life of its own. It enchants all who close their mortal eyes and open their hearts to begin seeing from the soul, surrendering themselves to that magical realm that coexists in the same space as everything perceptible—appreciated by many, truly lived by few.
Mitla’s richness lies in its atmosphere, its surroundings, in the breath of legendary air that has flowed through this place since ancient times. It stands as a witness to the mysteries hidden in the past of the old Zapotec people, who today are the last guardians of this unique wisdom. They open that doorway to the world, allowing passage between past and present, old and new, magic and reality, this life and the next.
Mitla is abundant with beauty, both day and night, admired from any angle, captured through any perspective in a photograph. Every view, ritual, act, and product holds a purpose—a reason to exist and to present itself in just that way.
Xibalba (in Quiché), Lyobaá (in Zapotec), Mictlán (in Nahuatl), or Mitla (in Spanish) are some of the names given to the "place of rest." It was a Great City-Sanctuary, a religious and civil center of great prominence, and at the same time, a national sanctuary. The history of Mitla takes us back to the tale of an ancient culture—one that predates even the Zapotec civilization, the lineage that currently inhabits this significant center. Long before this great city became a cornerstone of Zapotec culture, Mitla was already an imposing settlement where power resided—not only material power, as possessed by kings and rulers, but a transcendent power that extended beyond life itself, governing life and death.
Mitla was the official residence of the high pontiff—the vicar of divinity, the oracle of faith, and the channel through which divine grace descended from heaven to earth. This figure also passed eternal curses and bestowed forgiveness and absolution. For this reason, among its inhabitants, Mitla was called "The Palace of the Living and the Dead," a place destined for the burial of Zapotec pontiffs and monarchs, the passage to the next life, "The Great Door to Eternity.".
Mitla offers unparalleled landscapes, among them its collection of archaeological zones that showcase a style distinct from those of other cultures, rich with ornamental elements, scrollwork, and reliefs. The style of its constructions is noteworthy, where the "greca" (geometric fretwork) stands as the predominant and exclusive decorative motif, presenting a refined and universally unique aesthetic.
A remarkable example is the construction of the main palace, which begins with a narrow base and broadens as it rises—a complete departure from the traditional norms of construction, defying the laws of gravity. Equally striking in Mitla's architecture is the presence of cruciform underground chambers that served both as tombs and spaces for the practice of rituals and hidden ceremonies, many of which remain shrouded in mystery, while some have been preserved to this day.
The Church of Saint Paul the Apostle is another highly visited site, as it embodies the same rich history and unmatched mysticism that defines Mitla. It is noted in numerous books for being built atop the Zapotec ceremonial center, with construction materials sourced from this ancient site. Interestingly, it is the only Catholic church in the town that is not located at the center of the Pueblo.
Other significant sites for the residents of Mitla include the Frissell Museum, the Xaagá caves, which house an invaluable collection of rock paintings created thousands of years ago, and the Cueva del Diablo (Devil's Cave), the domain of Mitla's "other Lord," a place shrouded in dark mystery.
In addition to its charming locations, Mitla is renowned for its authentic traditions and customs, some of which are showcased in the Fandango Mitleño or Mitla Weddings performances during the international Guelaguetza festival or "Lunes del Cerro" in Oaxaca. Mitla is a cradle of countless traditions, customs, crafts, and knowledge that have spread throughout the municipality and across the state of Oaxaca.
As part of the heritage Mitla has shared with the world, its handicrafts hold great significance, with their sale being a primary source of income for most residents. Originally, textiles crafted in Mitla were made using the backstrap loom, later transitioning to the pedal loom. Today, workshops featuring both loom types are available, offering visitors a valuable experience where they can witness the artistry of textile creation—from shearing the sheep to obtain wool, to the final garment ready for use.
It’s worth noting that Mitla still preserves natural dyeing techniques for garments, utilizing fruits and flowers as pigments to create an exquisite array of colors. These can be admired during visits to the workshops of skilled artisans. Walking along Mitla’s main streets, one encounters a variety of shop-workshops displaying traditional clothing and diverse handicrafts, each offering a glimpse into the mastery and cultural richness of this remarkable town.
And the list of attractions that Mitla offers to the world could go on and on, as undoubtedly Mitla is, not only remarkable for what it possesses but for what it imparts—a magical experience that will endure for eternity. It’s an experience that cannot simply be described, but one that must be lived.
Gallery
Video
Location Map
